The Concealer Killer

Under eye concealers have been popular since make-up started being applied. When the area under the eye is dark — or worse, crepey — it makes one appear tired, sad, or even weak. Under eyes that are tight, bright, and show no hollows make one look refreshed, awake, and even more in control. So, if not concealer, then what?

Under-eye volume loss is often the culprit. Sometimes it is related to age, other times heredity, or both. Loss of fat under the eye creates a depression that in turn presents as a shadow. The shadow appears dark, making one look tired, even when they are well rested. The answer to this issue is careful placement of a hyaluronic acid filler. This restores the volume and brings the skin up to the same plane as the rest of the area so the reflection of light is bright and smooth, and more consistent with the cheek reflection.

For this procedure I only use Restylane-L, a particulate gel that is not cohesive, so it spreads out evenly. The new look is instant, though there may be a slight swelling in the area the next few mornings. 

Now that the volume is replaced, it is important to get the skin in shape. The lower lid area is one of the thinnest-skinned areas on the body. Using products that will increase the dermal depth is imperative for perfection. My first go-to is a retinoid, which is a vitamin-A derivative. The most common one that people recognize is Retin-A, or the generic tretinoin cream. There are however several pharmaceutical-grade retinols that perform well and may be slightly less irritating. Skin Medica Retinol 1% is very effective, as is ZO .5%. I suggest using the product up to the lower lid rim, leaving a space of 2 millimeters from the rim. There may be push-back from some who think the skin is too thin there, but that is why it is needed. Retinoids thicken the dermis, the most important layer. They also thin the epidermis which is the area showing the most wear and tear. If one is reticent to use a retinoid up there, Glytone Age Defying Eye Cream utilizes a glycolic complex that also has the ability to increase cell turnover and slightly thicken the dermis.  The result is thicker, healthier, under-eye skin, which translates into a rested, bright-eyed appearance.

My advice? Skip the concealer. 

Author
Dr. Bonnie Marting, DNP, APRN Bonnie K. Marting, DNP, APRN, is a renowned aesthetic and laser specialist. Clients from all over the world value her deep knowledge of facial anatomy and her ability to transform their look with a light and natural touch at Anushka Medical Spa in West Palm Beach, Florida.

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